table OF CONTENTS
1. Audyssey MultEQ
.......... a. Audyssey Mic Not Included
.......... b. Audyssey Setup
.......... c. Sub Settings
2. AVR General Info
.......... a. Component --> HDMI Video Conversion
.......... b. GUI/Menu
.......... c. HDMI --> Component Video Conversion
.......... d. Master Volume Adjustment
.......... e. Microprocessor Reset
.......... f. Mute Icon
.......... g. Power OFF AVR
.......... h. Power Ratings
.......... i. Power Indicator Light when AVR in Standby
.......... j. Protection Mode
.......... k. Remote Control
.......... l. Settings - Memory Retention
.......... m. Setup Lock
3. Denon Website Info
.......... a. Owner's Manual
.......... a. 1080p/4K Video Upscaling
.......... b. X4400H - Extra Speaker Posts/Pre-outs
.......... c. Amp Assign - Bi-Amp
.......... d. ARC (Audio Return Channel)
.......... e. Bluetooth Adapter
.......... f. X series Models
.......... g. HDMI Audio Out
.......... h. HDMI Standby Pass Through
.......... i. SAVE/LOAD config settings
.......... j. Stream iPhone/DLNA server music to S510BT
.......... k. Watch TV while listening to a different audio source
5. Known Issues: See "post 4" of this thread.
.......... a. Bitstream vs. PCM
.......... b. HDMI Cable 1.4 vs. 2.0
.......... c. Keep the box
.......... d. Older AVR w/o HDMI jacks
.......... e. USA/CA vs. Europe/Asia Pacific Models
.......... f. Used/Demo/Open Box/Refurb
.......... a. Airplay
.......... b. Connecting to Home Network
.......... c. Firmware Updates
.......... d. Network Reset
.......... e. NET/USB
.......... f. Remote Control Smartphone Apps
8. Purchasing Info
.......... a. Best Buy/Magnolia
.......... b. On-line Dealers
.......... c. Warranty
9. Rear Panel Connections
.......... a. 12v Trigger
.......... b. IR Extender/Repeater Kit
.......... c. Switched Outlets
.......... d. Turntable/Phono
.......... a. Front Wide speaker support
.......... b. Minimum number of speakers
.......... c. Speaker Recommendations
.......... d. Speaker/Sub Volume
.......... e. Speaker Wire
.......... f. Subwoofer - Best Location
.......... g. Subwoofer - Cable option
.......... h. Surround Speaker Placement/Connections
.......... i. Tower Speakers w/built in sub
.......... a. Airplay Icon not showing up
.......... b. "Airplay Speaker Not Available"
.......... c. AVR randomly changes to other sources
.......... d. AVR shuts down at higher volumes
.......... e. AVR switches to TV source when first turned ON
.......... f. Cannot see networked Denon on my WIN XP computer/laptop
.......... g. Center Channel dialog too weak watching TV
.......... h. "Connection failed. Check the device"
.......... i. Green screen on TV
.......... j. HD Channel (DD 5.1) in Stereo
.......... k. HDMI Handshake Issues (audio/video dropouts)
.......... l. HTPC won't pass audio/video
.......... m. Intermittent HDMI audio/video
.......... n. No audio from single speaker
.......... o. No Video on AVR front panel display
.......... p. Projector - no video displayed
.......... q. PS3/Blu Ray Player (BDP)/Game machine - No Video or Intermittent Video Issue
.......... r. Speaker volume change won't stick
.......... s. Sub not working
.......... t. Surround mode changes
.......... u. Unresolved Issues
.......... v. Volume drops randomly from AT&T U-verse box
.......... w. White sparkles on TV
.......... x. Why do my small speakers get set to LARGE?
.......... y. Why does front panel display read "Multi Ch In" and not DD/DTS/DD TrueHD/DTS HD MA/ATMOS/DTS:X?
.......... z. Why only "STEREO" or "Dolby Surround" and not DD TrueHD/DTS HD MA?
.......... z1. Wii only displays in 4:3 aspect
.......... z2. WIN 7/8/10 PC shows up as "Not Authorized"
.......... z3. WMP 11/12 audio files won't play from PC via wireless network
12. Zone 2
.......... a. 2-CH Amp
.......... b. Source Limitations
.......... c. Whole House Audio
.......... d. Wireless Headphones
1. Audyssey MultEQ
a. Audyssey Mic Not Included: If you think Denon forgot to ship the Audyssey
mic with your new AVR ... check again. The mic is located inside a small white
box that may be embedded inside the styrofoam packaging itself so check
all around the styrofoam.
All 2017 models (except the S530BT): These models ship with the
Audyssey ACM1HB mic which is interchangeable with the Audyssey DM-A409
(2008-2011 Denon models) and Audyssey ACM1H (Onkyo/Marantz) mics.
Note to there is a 90 day warranty on the mic, so if the mic appears
to be defective, contact Denon Parts dept for a warranty replacement.
If the mic is indeed missing, you cannot use just any mic from another
brand (other than Onkyo or Marantz) as the DM-A409/ACM1H/ACM1HB mics have
been calibrated to work with the Denon AVRs. Contact Denon for a replacement
or you can usually find one on eBay for about $25 (although don't purchase
one from outside the USA as they may be knockoffs).
b. Audyssey Setup: The Setup Wizard and Speakers - Audyssey Setup can be
run at any time. Just because you only have the front main (FL/C/FR)
speakers or even just a 2.0 stereo setup is no reason not to run Audyssey
Setup. If you add more speakers, simply run it again. You'll also want
to rerun it if you move the speakers or any furniture in the room.
Regardless of how many actual seats are in your listening room and where
they are physically located, ideally you will want to run all 6 (MultEQ)
or 8 (MultEQ XT/XT32) positions using the included "rocketship"
cardboard mic stand or a camera tripod or (boom mic stand + mic adapter)
within no more than a 2'-3' radius around the #1 mic position
(ie. main listening position (MLP) or roughly ear height of the center of
"your" head) in order to provide the most data points for the Audyssey filters.
One of the reasons you likely bought a Denon AVR was for Audyssey,
so take advantage of its capability by providing it with as much data
as possible. The whole process shouldn't take more than 20 -30 minutes
(depending on whether you have a 5 speaker setup or 11 speaker setup),
although ensure it is completely quiet in the room
(ie. no pets or kids running around, no A/C noises, no PJ noise). Also,
the test tones can be quite loud (75db), so best not to do this at night
(especially if living in an apartment) when others are sleeping.
The Audyssey mic cable length is 25'. If you have the AVR located in a
closet or a longer distance from the main zone, you can buy a 25'
extension cable like this one; however, 50' from the AVR to the mic is
the maximum length that Audyssey recommends to avoid any signal degradation.
Prior to running Audyssey Setup, you'll ideally want to have your front main
speakers toed in towards the main listening position,
the center speaker angled up/down (as appropriate) to aim towards the main
listening position (ear height) and if using on-wall/in-ceiling speakers,
aimed down towards the main listening position.
It doesn't matter what settings you have set prior to running Audyssey Setup
as they will be ignored and any previous Audyssey settings will be written
over each time Audyssey Setup is run. Simply follow the directions listed
in the SETUP WIZARD or follow along in the Denon Owner's manual. Also note
that some speakers are intentionally wired "out of phase" by the mfr so if
you get a PHASE error and have confirmed the speaker is wired correctly
(i.e. +/+ and -/-) then simply press SKIP and move on to the next speaker.
Initially just run 3 mic positions with the sub volume/gain knob set to
10 o'clock and check to see what the Denon set the sub volume to ...
if it's -12db (ie. this means the sub is too loud and the Denon has reached
the maximum limit of -12db in attempting to lower it to the 75db calibration volume)
, you'll want to lower the volume knob on the sub (eg. to 9 o'clock)
and run Audyssey Setup again for 3 mic positions. As long as it's
< -10db (eg. -9db, -8db, -7db, etc.) you're good to go to complete the remaining 5
(MultEQ) or 7 (MultEQ XT/XT32) positions. There is no reason to get it as close
to 0db as possible (unless the sub signal is not causing the sub to turn ON and
in that case, get the trim closer to 0db so the AVR sends a stronger signal to the sub)
as doing so simply allows more room to adjust the sub volume lower even more
with the remote (which isn't what most will want to do,
rather most will likely want to raise it a few db louder).
The AVR will generally set any speaker that is capable of playing
a < 50hz frequency (regardless of what the mfr's spec is on paper)
in your room to LARGE. Note this setting is NOT about the physical
size of the speaker, rather simply whether it can play low frequencies
(LARGE) or not (SMALL). However, after running Audyssey Setup,
if you are using a sub, go into the Denon GUI and change ALL speakers
to SMALL and raise any crossovers that were set below 80Hz up to either
60Hz or 80Hz (whichever you prefer). This not only transfers those
lower frequencies to the sub (which is generally able to handle them better
as it's got it's own amp) but also frees up some extra headroom for the AVR.
Also note that there are 64x (MultEQ) and 8x (MultEQ XT)
more Audyssey filters used for the sub then for the speakers
so your setup will likely sound better by transferring more to the sub
(note that XT32 employs the same number of filters for the speakers and sub).
Feel free to adjust the sub or speaker volume level higher/lower
using the Manual Setup - Test Tones menu to suit your preference as doing
so will not affect the Audyssey filters. For better center channel dialog
during TV viewing, make sure the center speaker is angled up/down
(as required) towards ear height of your main listening position.
If you have having low dialog issues with the cable/sat box,
you can also set the Audyssey Dyn EQ Reference Level Offset setting to "10db." .
Note that in order to use Audyssey, as well as the Audyssey related features
Dynamic EQ (increases bass and surround audio at lower volumes below 0db)
or Dynamic Volume (tames loud commercials/explosions for late night viewing),
you must run Audyssey Setup. Generally most folks will want to use
Dynamic EQ for all sources, all the time (as most everyone listens at below 0db),
and use Dynamic VOL (MEDIUM) for TV and late night movie viewing only
(when it's important to keep the loud explosions down due to sleeping kids, etc.),
leaving it OFF for regular movie viewing when there's no need to be quiet.
c. Sub Settings: Prior to running Audyssey Setup, the sub knobs should be set as
shown below. Refer to your AVR Owner's manual section on "Setup Speakers
(Audyssey Setup) - Setup subwoofer." For information on setting up dual subs,
refer to the Audyssey Setup Guide para III.
Volume : “10 o'clock position” (manual recommends starting at 12 o'clock
but the vast majority will end up lowering to closer to 10 o'clock)
Crossover frequency : “Maximum/Highest Frequency” (eg. if 80hz-150hz,
then set to 150hz) •
Low pass filter : “Off” or maximum/highest frequency (eg. if 80hz-150hz,
then set to 150hz) Note: This is not the same as the "LPF for LFE" setting on
the AVR which should be left at it's factory default setting of 120hz •
Standby mode : “Off” (ie. sub should be powered ON and not in AUTO) •
Phase : 0
Once Audyssey Setup settings are saved and you are satisfied with the settings
(ie. sub is not set to -12db), DO NOT make any further volume adjustments on
the sub itself (other than possibly changing the power from "ON" to "AUTO"),
rather adjust the sub volume using the remote control, the GUI menu. Although
the speaker "distances" will likely be spot on, the sub "distance" will likely
be longer as it is actually a value that allows for a delay due to filters
in the sub so do NOT manually change the sub distance to its actual distance.[*]
For more questions about Audyssey, refer to the Audyssey 101/FAQ Guide
or go to Ask Audyssey.
2. AVR General Info
a. Component --> HDMI Video Conversion: This feature is no longer available
on the lower level models below the X3400H to include the "S" series models.
Another alternate option is to use a component --> HDMI converter or if
you have a Wii you can use the Wii2HDMI.
b. GUI/Menu display All models can ONLY display the GUI/status menu over
an HDMI connection to your TV. Although much of the information can be
read on the front panel display, some setup information is NOT displayed
so you are much better served viewing the GUI setup on the TV.
To display the GUI, simply press the appropriate menu button on the remote
(ie. INFO, OPTION, or SETUP). If you only use a projector with no HDTV,
you may want to consider purchasing a small 12" HDMI display for setup use only.
c. HDMI --> Component Video Conversion: If you have an older non-HDMI TV,
note that there is no HDMI--> Component video conversion by any current AVR
on the market. Either you must use the 2017 (S930H, X2400H and higher),
which have (2) component video inputs AND (1) output, or you can use an
external 3rd party device that can do the conversion.
d. Master Volume Adjustment: Unlike perhaps your older receiver that was
really loud at say 1/4 of the maximum master volume scale, Denon AVRs use
a logarithmic volume scale and will require the volume turned to roughly 2/3
of the maximum for average volume levels. Denon AVRs have two volume scales,
the default being "absolute" 0-98 and "relative" ( -79.5db to +18db).
If you have run Audyssey Setup, then average volume for most folks with
speakers and at least 87db+ efficiency, will be around -40db to -30db
(41-51 absolute) for TV listening and -30db to -10db (51-71 absolute)
for movie/music listening. Each model has a "Volume Limit" setting that
defaults to OFF although can be set to 60(-20db), 70 (-10db), or 80 (0db).
Setting this to 70 (-10db) is a good idea to ensure that others
in the house cannot raise the master volume too loud which might cause
the AVR to shut down in protection mode or clip the speakers. Also,
to ensure the AVR doesn't shut down in protection mode, it's
a good idea to not raise the volume above 80(0db) (little additional
volume gained at the price of an extreme increase in power required).
Also note that when adjusting the volume using the remote,
it's better to tap the volume up/down buttons as pressing and holding
it down for several seconds results in a HUGE change in volume.
This is common to ALL stock Denon remotes.
e. Microprocessor Reset: See post 5 of this thread.
f. MUTE Icon: There is currently no way to remove the MUTE icon from
the TV display when in the MUTE mode. To prevent the relays from clicking
when pressing MUTE, change the “Mute Level” setting from “FULL” to “-40db.
g. Power OFF AVR: The only way to turn the AVR completely OFF is to unplug it,
otherwise it is either ON or in Standby. Each model will use anywhere
from roughly 65W-85W when ON (no audio playing) to 80W-100W at reference
volume (0db) using 8ohm speakers of at least average sensitivity (ie 87db+).
In Standby they will use 0.1W with HDMI Control OFF, 0.5W with HDMI Control ON,
and about 2.7W with IP Control set to ON.
h. Power Ratings: For marketing purposes, Denon generally uses 6 ohm ratings
(ie. gives a higher wattage rating) on the lower level AVRs which is why
you will find them advertised (eg. Best Buy) at higher power ratings than
listed in their Owner manuals or in these info posts both of which use the
8 ohm rating. Remember to read the fine print when checking the power ratings
of an AVR. Also note that the difference in power ratings between these
models is moot as going from the 75W (S740H) to the 125W (X4400H)
will result in less than a 3db increase in volume .... 3db being the
lowest amount of volume that can generally be detected by most people.
For this reason, if you truly want additional volume capability,
you are better served adding an external amp of at least 200W+
(although this can only be done with the 2017 (X3400H/X4400H/X6400H)
models as they are the only models with main zone pre-outs to connect to
an external amp) or simply buying speakers that are at least 3db more efficient
(eg. from 86db to 89db efficiency/sensitivity rating).
i. Power Indicator Light when AVR in Standby: When either "HDMI Control"
or "HDMI Pass Through" are set to ON or "Network Control” is set to ALWAYS ON,
the power indicator light above the power button on the AVR's front panel will
change to solid "red" when placed in Standby mode.
j. Protection Mode: If the AVR shuts off in protection mode and the power
indicator light flashes red, it generally means the following
based on the frequency of flashes:
- Every 1/2 sec = speaker wire from one post touching another post
(most common); driving 4ohm speakers too loud (ie. >-10db); or amp failure
- Every 2 sec = temperature of the AVR is too hot (provide more ventilation)
The most common cause for shutting down, is a loose speaker wire
strand touching another post. A great way to shore up loose speaker
wire strands is to use banana plugs on those models that accept banana
plugs (ie. "X" series). Visually check the speaker connections at both
the AVR and the speakers themselves to guarantee that speaker wire from
one post isn't touching another post. Pull the AVR out of the rack or
cabinet if you have to in order to ensure this is the case.
If you have in wall speaker wire, it's very possible a nail may have
split the speaker wire casing causing it to short. If you have confirmed
there are no speaker wire issues and are not running 4 ohm
speakers excessively loud, then disconnect all sources and add one at
a time to see if the issue is being caused by a particular source.
If not, then disconnect all the speakers and add one speaker back
at a time to see if the issue is caused by a particular speaker.
If not and you are using a power strip, try connecting directly to
the outlet as you may have a bad power strip. If still no joy,
then try resetting the microprocessor as a last resort.
If still no joy, you're likely looking at having to send the unit
in for repair as it could be amp failure.
k. Remote Control: The Denon 2017 stock remotes (except X4400H/X6400H)
cannot operate other 3rd party devices. If you want to boost your Wife
Acceptance Factor (WAF), your best bet is to purchase a Harmony
(or other universal/programmable) remote which can be used for not
only most every function on the Denon stock remote but also to control
your other devices as well. Simply download the remote codes for your
particular Denon AVR model (and other devices) from the Logitech data base.
Numerous Harmony models from $50 on up are available.
l. Settings - Memory Retention: All settings in the AVR to include
the Audyssey settings should be retained for at least 1-2 weeks if
the power cable is disconnected from the AVR. In a few instances,
it has been reported by a few forum members that if the power is interrupted
(eg. power outage) while the AVR is powered ON,
the settings "may" return to their factory default settings.
m. Setup Lock: When you have small kids in the house,
it may be a good idea to consider setting the "Setup Lock" feature to ON.
This setting defaults to OFF from the factory. Also, with cats around,
check for loose cable connections at the rear panel if
you suddenly start having connection issues.
3. Denon Website Info
a. Owner's Manual: Denon no longer provides a hard copy Owner's manua;
however, the .pdf file can be downloaded from Denon's website here.
a. 1080p/4K Video Upscaling:
2017 models (S530BT, S730H, X1400H): These models can only
pass through up to 4K/60fps video.
2017 models (S930H, X2400H): These models can pass through
up to 4K/60fps video and upscale up to 4K/30fps video.
2017 models (X3400H, X4400H/X6400H): These models can pass
through and upscale up to 4K/60fps video.
b. X4400H extra speaker posts: Although the X4400H features 11
sets of speaker posts, it can only provide 9CH of on board audio
at a time ... the extra speaker posts are merely provided for
convenience so as not to have to rewire for other configurations.
This model can expand from 9CH to 11CH audio in the main zone by
using an external 2CH amp connected to either
the FL/FR or HT2 L/R speaker pre-outs.
c. Amp Assign - Bi-Amp: Using this mode (known as "passive bi-amping")
generally produces no noticeable improvement in either audio
quality nor extra power as you're simply sending the same full
range signal to each set of posts on the bi-ampable speaker
(which they would still get with a single connection) from the
same single power supply in the AVR. If you want extra power for
the speakers (which in most cases is not necessary for 8ohm
speakers with an 86db+ efficiency in small/med sized rooms),
the only 2017 USA models that will allow for an external amp
connection are the X3400H/X4400H/X6400H all of
which have at least 7.2 main zone pre-outs.
d. ARC (Audio Return Channel): This is the feature that will
pass audio from the TV (eg. OTA, Netflix, Hulu, Vudu, etc.)
back to the AVR over the same HDMI cable that connects the AVR
from the Monitor Out jack to the TV. In order for the ARC
feature to work, it must be offered on both the TV and the AVR.
Just because the TV and AVR are HDMI 1.4 or higher DOES NOT mean
they offer the ARC feature. In order to use the TV's ARC feature
you must set the TV's "HDMI-CEC" setting (LG - SimpLink;
Phillips - EasyLink; Panasonic - VieraLink; Sony - BraviaSync;
Samsung - Anynet+; Toshiba - CE-Link,RegzaLink) to ON as well
as setting the AVR's "HDMI Control" setting to ON as the factory
default is OFF. Some TV's also require the audio to be set to
external speakers (eg. Samsung - set to Home Theater).
Also make sure the HDMI cable from the AVR is plugged into the
ARC labeled jack on the TV (eg. HDMI1 - Panasonic, HDMI2 -
Samsung, Panasonic). Once these settings are made, turn all
devices OFF for a few minutes and then ON again ... TV first
and then the AVR (although if that order doesn't work,
try AVR first and then TV). Note that a side effect when using
the TV's HDMI-CEC/ARC set to ON is that the AVR will always
shift to the "TV Audio" source input when first turned ON
rather than going to the last input that was on prior to the
AVR being put into Standby (as is the case when ARC is OFF).
First introduced on the 2014 models, there is a new "TV Audio
Switching" setting which defaults to ON, but can be set to OFF in
order to prevent the AVR from automatically switching to the
"TV Audio" source. Also on the 2016 models is an "ARC"
setting which defaults to OFF but should be set to ON when in use.
If you are unable to get the ARC to work, try replacing
the HDMI cable from the AVR --> TV with a newer
cable as doing so will often resolve the issue.
Note also that with some TVs (eg.. Samsung) the AVR will also
revert to the TV input while in Standby which will prevent you
from using the HDMI pass through feature (eg. cable/sat box)
without turning the HDMI-CEC setting on the TV to OFF.
If this is too annoying, either turn off the HDMI-CEC/ARC setting
on the TV when not using it or forgo the ARC feature
(set HDMI-CEC/ARC to OFF) and use an optical cable from the TV to the AVR.
The optical cable will pass the same audio (PCM 2.0 or DD 5.1)
that the HDMI cable would have passed with no loss in audio quality.
If you have the cable/sat box connected directly to the TV
(eg. due to an HDMI handshake issue), check your TV owner's manual
to see if the TV will pass DD 5.1 from connected sources when
using the ARC connection (as some down mix to stereo only).
If not, then connect an optical cable from the sat/cable box to
the AVR instead if it passes DD 5.1 over the optical audio out.
e. Bluetooth Adapter:: All 2017 models include built-in Bluetooth
capability so a 3rd party adapter is not required.
Note this capability is for streaming Bluetooth audio "to" the AVR.
To stream "from" the AVR will require purchasing
a 3rd party Bluetooth transmitter.
f. X series Models: The "X" series models include such features as
remote control jacks (used with IR extenders/repeaters),
RS-232 jack for remote access (eg. home automation systems like Crestron),
and maintenance mode (pro installer or service tech only).
The "X" series models also offer a 3
year warranty (vice 2 years for the S series models).
g. HDMI Audio Out: This feature only works with devices connected
to the AVR with an HDMI cable. It's an "either/or" setting in that
the audio can be set to pass to the "AVR" or
the "TV", but not both at the same time.
h. HDMI Standby Pass Through: This feature allows you to pass HDMI
connected sources only through the AVR (when in Standby) to the TV.
On the 2017 models, HDMI Control does not need to be set to ON
as there is an "HDMI Pass Through" setting which defaults to ON
with the "Pass Through Source" defaulting to CBL/SAT so connect
an HDMI source to the CBL/SAT input should pas through without making
any further changes. If you decide to change the Standby source to
either LAST (source used) or another HDMI source,
once making these change, turn the AVR and TV off for a few minutes,
then power both back on, the TV first, then the AVR.
If this feature is not working for you,
try setting the HDMI-CEC/ARC setting on your TV to OFF.
i. SAVE/LOAD config settings: The 2017 models come with the
feature to SAVE/LOAD the config/settings file
(includes Audyssey settings) to/from a USB thumb drive.
j. Stream iPhone/DLNA music to non-network models (ie. S530BT):
If you have a PS3, xbox360, or laptop that is connected to your
]home network as well as hard wired to your AVR, you can use the
AirMusic iPhone app to stream audio to these devices and play it
through your surround setup. There are also several other devices
that can be used to include Apple TV, Airport Express,
as well as converting the audio to a
FM frequency and playing it via the built in TUNER.
k. Watch TV while listening to a different audio source:You have
a couple of different options here. One option is to connect the
cable/sat box HDMI directly to the TV w/optical from the cable/sat box
to the AVR. That way you can use the HDMI to the TV for video and
then select whatever audio source you want on the AVR. Another option
is with any video source (to include HDMI) can be selected while
listening to USB, Tuner, or network sources using the "OPTION -
Video Select" setting. On the models with a CD analog audio input
(ie. S930H, X2400H, X3400H, X4400H, X6400H) you can connect an
external source to the CD analog or optical input
(as long as there is no video assigned to CD) and listen to it
while watching a separate HDMI video source. The X4400H and X6400H
also add the PHONO input which can be used with "Video Select" as well.
a. Bitstream vs. PCM: When playing audio from a BD/DVD, you can set
the Blu Ray player (BDP) to either "bitstream" or "PCM/Direct".
By setting it to "PCM/Direct" the BDP will decode
(or unzip) the file which will then pass the audio in its original
uncompressed format (ie. multi-channel PCM) to the AVR which will
then display "MULT CH IN" on the front panel, or you can "bitstream"
the audio and just let the BDP pass the compressed file directly
to the AVR to let the AVR decode (or unzip) it in which case you
will see the compressed file codec used (eg. DD, DTS, Dolby TrueHD,
DTS HD MA, etc.) on the front panel display. Either way the audio
quality will be the same, although the bitstreamed audio will
likely sound a bit louder, and most prefer to see the compressed
file codec on their AVR's front panel display rather than just
"MULT CH IN". When bitstreaming the audio, ensure the "Secondary audio"
or "Audio Mix" setting (if there is one) on the BDP is set to OFF.
Also note that HD audio tracks can be either 5.1 or 7.1; regardless,
it will be downmixed to however many speakers are in your setup.
Note: When playing an Atmos/DTS:X Blu Ray, you must have the BDP set to
"bitstream" with Secondary Audio/Mix set to OFF.
b. HDMI Cable 1.4 vs. 2.0: When passing a 4k/HDCP 2.2 signal thru the AVR,
you will need to upgrade to the newer "Premium" certified 4k/18gpbs HDMI cables.
For cable and switch needs consider forum sponsors Monoprice
and Blue Jeans Cable where good quality "Premium" 4k/18gbps 6' HDMI
cables can be had for about $5 each. There's no reason to get ripped
off buying overpriced Monster cables at Best Buy. There's also no
reason to pay more for an HDMI cable w/Ethernet as none of the current
models can take advantage of the Ethernet feature in this cable.
c. Keep the box: The original Denon box the AVR comes in should be kept
for the life of the AVR as it will be needed if the AVR has to be
returned to the vendor you purchased it from or if it needs to be shipped
to a repair facility for repair.
d. Older AVR w/o HDMI jacks:: If you have an older generation AVR that
lacks HDMI jacks and the only reason you want to upgrade to an HDMI AVR
is to get the new HD codecs (DD TrueHD and DTS HD MA),
then unless you want to spend more money, keep your old AVR as the lossy
DD/DTS tracks on BD's are created at a higher bitrate (~640kbps vs. 430kbps)
on a regular DVD. Many will be unable to discern any audio difference
between these tracks and the HD audio tracks via HDMI.
e. USA/CA vs. Europe/Asia Pacific Models: Although the USA/CA and
Europe/Asia Pacific models are very similar, there are some noted
differences to include: (1) The USA/CA X1400H features Zone 2 pre-outs
whereas the Europe/Asia Pacific X1400H does not, and (2) None of the "S"
series are offered in Europe/Asia Pacific, rather they are replaced by the
X540BT instead, (3) The USA/CA X1400H and X2400H feature (1) Coax-digital
and (1) RS-232 jack not found on the Europe/Asia Pacific models.
Also note there is a 2 digit code on the OEM shipping box with the model
number that identifies the region of the AVR
(eg. X2400H E3): EU or E3 = USA, EC = Canada,
E1 = Asia, E2 = Europe, and EA = Australia.
f. Used/Demo/Open Box/Refurb: When purchasing an other than new in box unit
(ie. demo/used/refurb), you'll want to reset the microprocessor
(see post 5 of this thread) before starting the setup process which will
ensure all settings are returned to their original factory defaults.
a. Airplay: The Airplay feature (audio only) is offered on the S730H
and higher networking models. It allows you to stream your iTunes songs
wirelessly from your laptop, iPhone 3GS or newer (will not work with iPhone 3G),
or iPad to one of the above models when both are connected to your home network.
This feature can also be replicated on the S530BT by using an Apple TV
(audio and video) or Airport Express (audio) connected to the AVR.
Also note that Apple currently has only licensed AVR mfr's to use Airplay in
"audio only" mode (ie. no video). If you want to pass video,
you'll to need to add the Apple TV (ATV).
A "wired" connection from the AVR to the router/modem is preferred to reduce
connection issues and reduce audio dropouts due to buffering
(eg. AVR front panel display reads “Buffering 60%).
If you don't want a networking model, adding an Apple TV will give you Airplay,
although there are noted issues with the ATV having audio dropouts
regardless of the brand of AVR connection. Some have noted that turning off
Bluetooth and closing background applications on your iphone, ipad,
etc. will reduce/eliminate the Airplay audio dropouts. Also,
if having connectivity issues, try unplugging the AVR for
a few minutes and then power on again.
Notes: (1) When using Airplay, the source controls the initial volume so make
sure it is turned down on your laptop, iPhone, iPad, etc. before starting to
stream the audio through your surround speakers. (2) If you want to turn
the AVR ON to use Airplay, make sure NETWORK CONTROL is set to ALWAYS ON
(default setting), and download one of the REMOTE apps listed in para 7 below.
(3) In order to use Airplay with an Android phone, you can use the
doubleTwist app (free) along with the doubleTwist add on MagicPlay app ($2.99).
(4) When selecting Airplay to play to Zone 2, the main zone will initially
be hijacked and play the same Airplay source selected for Zone 2,
although once playing in Zone 2, you can reselect the source that was
playing in the main zone. Note that although with the older 2012 (XX13)
models you cannot turn the main zone off while Airplay is playing to Zone 2;
this is no longer the case with the 2013 and newer models.
b. Connecting to a home network: All of the 2017 models (except the S530BT)
feature a "wireless" capability. Note that when doing a firmware update,
a "wired" connection is recommended as it is generally more reliable.
A couple of alternative connections are: (1) Powerline adapters that plug
into nearby outlets that can then connect to your wireless router/modem which
effectively turns your house wiring into a "wired" network, or (2)
Ethernet over coax MoCA adapters which use your existing
coax cable used for your TV.
If you don't plan on using the network capability for other
than firmware updates, 100' Cat 5/6 ethernet cables are fairly inexpensive
and available from forum sponsor Monoprice. You can also purchase
1000' Cat 5/6 bulk cable if longer length is required; however,
note the maximum length without signal amplification is 100m or roughly 300'.
If you are experiencing intermittent audio dropouts while using the network
streaming feature, consider connecting the AVR directly to the router
rather than a wireless connection or consider upgrading to a newer,
better quality router that is able to handle more bandwidth. Additionally,
if you have a NETGEAR router which is causing problems,
try disabling the UPnP mode. Also make sure that the router's SSID is not
"hidden", nor should it have a blank (" ") in its’ name.
If you are using a XFinity cable/modem, try setting it to "bridge" mode.
c. Firmware Updates: See post #6 of this thread.
d. Network Reset: See post #5 of this thread.
e. NET/USB: When finished using the NET/USB input source,
it's important to back all the way out of the menus
otherwise the connection will remain open.
f. Remote Control Smartphone apps: The 2016 Denon REMOTE app is a FREE app
that can be downloaded from the iTunes website here and used by an iPhone,
iPod touch or iPad to control the networking models from anywhere
in the house (where wireless internet is available).
For the more experienced iPhone/iPad remote users, you may want to try
the iPhone GUI Design application, Demopad . The 2016 Denon REMOTE app
for Android phones is also FREE and can be downloaded here.
Android phone users can also download AVR-Remote free
as well which works on both Denon and Marantz AVRs.
A couple of other similar apps (fee required), DenONOFF and DeRemote
can also be used on prior year models going back to XX08.
Or if having audio/drop out issues using Airplay, consider using
the 2Player android app. Make sure the Network Standby setting is set
to ON in order to turn the AVR ON from Standby. If the remote app
should suddenly stop working, try powering
off the AVR and unplug it for a few minutes.
9. Rear Panel Connections
a. 12v Trigger: When connecting a trigger jack to an external device
that also has a trigger jack, first ensure both devices are powered OFF.
Then use a 1/8" to 1/8" Mono cable like this one to connect the AVR
to the device you want to trigger (eg. external amp, projection screen,
lights, etc.). Although triggers are more sophisticated than
switched outlets, the simple ON/OFF feature of a trigger can be
replicated using a smart power strip (although note this particular
model doesn't work with all AVRs) rather than getting the X3400H
(1 trigger) or X4400H/X6400H (2 triggers). If you are using an
external amp that goes to Standby when powered back on (eg. Emotiva),
consider using this trigger switch from Emotiva along with the smart power strip.
b. IR Extender/Repeater Kit: An IR extender/repeater kit can be used
to extend the IR signal of the Denon remote when the AVR is located
in a closet or other room. There are numerous 3rd party kits on the
market which will include a powered "blaster" and a receiver,
although not all may work with your model so before buying,
ask the reseller if it's been tested with your model. The powered
"blaster" will have either a single or multiple wired emitters
connected to it (generally with no more than 6' wire) that are placed
over the IR sensor on the front panel of each device you want
to control and as such, can be used with ANY Denon AVR model.
The receiver is then placed in the room in which you will be
using the remote control. Some kits cannot be used in close proximity
to a LCD or plasma TV and others have limited range so be sure
to read the fine print before buying one of these kits.
On Denon AVRs the IR sensor is located about 1/3 from the left side
of the front panel display (see picture in your Owner's manual).
The "X" series models include a Remote Control IR IN jack which
can provide a cleaner connection in the rear panel of the AVR
rather than having to place an emitter over the IR sensor on
the front panel display. If you have a X model and would prefer
to use the Remote Control IN jack, there are kits that use a
3.5mm plug instead of an emitter or AFAIK, you can simply replace
the emitter with a 3.5mm mono-to-mono cable. Google "IR extender kit"
or "IR repeater kit" and ensure you read the fine print to get a
model that is appropriate for your particular requirements.
Also make sure it is returnable if it doesn't work correctly.
c. Switched Outlets: Denon AVRs no longer include switched outlets;
however, they can be easily replicated by using a smart power strip
like this one or this one. Also, as a reminder, when using an AVR
with switched outlets, never plug the subwoofer into them as they are
not designed for a high amperage device like a subwoofer.
d. Turntable/Phono: Although the X4400H and X6400H are the only 2017
models with a PHONO input, you can connect a turntable to any model
using a phono pre-amp similar to this one (if one is not built in to
the turntable). Simply connect the pre-amp to any of the analog inputs on the AVR.
a. Front Wide speaker support: Front Wide speakers are no longer
supported on the 2016 and 2017 models.
b. Minimum number of speakers: All models can run with a minimum of 2
speakers up to 5 (or 11) depending on the model. Audyssey will work
just as well with 2 speakers as it will with up to and including 11 speakers.
c. Speaker Recommendation: When considering speakers,
the general rule of thumb for a good 5.1 setup is to budget at
least 2x the cost of the AVR (ie. $500 AVR -> $1000+ 5.1 speaker setup),
the bottom line is you're much better served with a lower quality
AVR and better quality speakers, then a higher level AVR and lower
quality speakers. If you're considering one of the lower level models
(or your budget is < $500 for speakers), a good setup is either
the Energy Take 5.1 Classic , Klipsch HDT 300 5.1, Jamo 5.1,
or the Fluance 5.0 (so you'll need to add a sub). If you don't mind
spending some time in the used market (eg. Craigslist), you can sometimes
find a $1000-$1500 5.1 original MSRP setup for $500 or less.
Although Denon AVRs are designed to work with 6-8ohm speakers,
you can generally safely use 4ohm speakers if the volume is limited to
average listening volume only (ie. max volume roughly -20db). However,
it's generally better to stick with 8ohm speakers unless using
the X3300W/X4300H/X6300H in which case you can add an external amp if necessary.
Review this post for more information on the impact of speaker efficiency.
Bottom line is that going from speakers rated at 86db efficiency
to 89db efficiency is like going from a 75W AVR to a 150W AVR so look
for more efficient speakers rather than a higher powered AVR.
Ideally you would want to demo different speakers at a Best Buy/Magnolia
or other Hi Fi shop, keeping in mind these stores generally do not run
the AVRs EQ program (eg. Audyssey) so if you like their sound in the store,
they'll likely sound even better when in your home after running Audyssey Setup.
If you are just starting to build your speaker setup, it's better to have better
quality front three speakers L/C/R and sub and hold off on the surround
speakers until you can afford them. If TV and movies will make up the majority
of your audio listening, you'll ideally want the center speaker to be of the
same (or better) quality than your front L/R speakers
as 80%+ of the dialogue will come from the center speaker.
If you have a 5.1 surround setup from a HTIB that you want to use with your
new AVR ... DON’T, at least not without checking what impedance
the speakers are rated. More often than not, HTIB speakers are generally
only 2-4ohm speakers designed to work only with the receiver that came with
the HTIB and in some cases have special wire connectors.
If they are 6ohm or 8ohm speakers (as is the case with Denon Boston Acoustics setups),
you're good to go, otherwise, sell the HTIB speaker setup on Craigslist or eBay
and buy a stand-alone 8ohm speaker setup. Also, ideally stay away
from Bose speaker systems as they generally don't work well with Audyssey
due to having to be connected to the Bose Acoustimass
module first so the AVR never sees the sub.
d. Speaker/Sub Volume: Press the SETUP button on the remote and change
the speaker levels in the Manual Setup menu. These adjustments can be
made without impacting the Audyssey filters. However,
before making adjustments to the sub (esp. increasing the volume),
try leaving it at the current setting (after running Audyssey Setup)
for at least 2-3 weeks to adjust to the "reference" setting the mixer
intended rather than the boomy bass many are used to hearing from older
model receivers. If after that time, you still feel you want the sub
volume louder, then bump it up a few db using the AVR menu to suit your "preference."
e. Speaker Wire: For speaker wire runs up to 80', a 16AWG wire will be
sufficient. Longer runs should use 14AWG wire. A good place to buy
speaker wire is from forum sponsor Monoprice.
f. Subwoofer - Best location: To learn more about the best place in
your room to place your subwoofer, follow the
subwoofer crawl procedure
g. Subwoofer - Cable option: If you don't have a digital coax cable
handy to connect the sub preout on the AVR to the sub, you can use the
"yellow" composite video cable as a suitable substitute.
h. Surround Speaker Placement/Wire Connections: With a 5.0 or 5.1 setup,
the surround speakers are considered "side" surrounds and should be
connected to the speaker posts labeled "Surround" and ideally be
placed about 2'-3' above seated ear height and within 90-110 degrees
from the main listening position (ie. to the "sides" of the main
listening position and NOT the rear). When you add a 2nd set of
surrounds in a 7.0 or 7.1 setup, or "rear" surrounds, they should be
connected to the "Surr Back/Amp Assign" speaker posts and also ideally
placed about 2'-3' above seated ear height and about 3' directly
behind the main listening position. See the Dolby Digital website
here for more information. Note: If you only have a 5.0/5.1 setup and
the surround speakers are already wired in the rear,
then you must still connect those speakers to the "side" SURROUND speaker
posts as this is the proper setup for a 5.0/5.1 setup.
i. Tower Speakers w/built in sub: When using this type of speaker
(eg. Def Tech) and no external sub, connect the LFE cable from each AVR
sub preout to each speaker's sub. After running Audyssey Setup,
you will still want to set the front mains to SMALL
(regardless of what the mfr's speaker manual recommends)
as there are 8x (MultEQ XT) and 64x (MultEQ) more Audyssey sub filters
than speaker filters. This configuration will also then allow you to
adjust the sub channel volume to suit your preference. Note with XT32,
there are an equivalent number of speaker and sub control points,
so without a dedicated sub in the setup, you can go
either way with either a LARGE or SMALL setting.
a. Airplay icon not showing up If the Airplay icon is no longer displayed,
try one or more of the following steps to resolve the issue:
Set the AVR to Standby and unplug it for 10 minutes.
Then plug back in and turn on again. You may need to do this several times.
If using an iPhone or HTPC, try cycling
it OFF/ON/OFF/ON while it's connected to the network.
Close/Open iTunes a few times.
Power cycle the router, wireless bridge, or Powerline adapters OFF/ON/OFF/ON.
If your router has a "multicast" option, try setting it to YES.
Cycle DHCP OFF/ON/OFF/ON.
Assign the AVR with a static IP address of its own.
Turn off DHCP and select an IP address out of the normal range
(1-100, eg. 192.168.1.101 ) and then leave the subnet address that's there.
Give it a few minutes after you type it in
and you should see the icon pop up on your device.
If using a Verizon Actiontec router .... on the router,
go to the Advanced tab (accept the warning) and go to the IGMP Proxy menu
and disable "IGMP Proxy" which should resolve the issue. On newer Actiontec
routers, if you don't see the IGMP setting, but do see a "Routing" setting,
then select Routing/Routing Protocols/IGMP and disable "IGMP Proxy" there.
Another setting which has been shown to work is to enable the setting just
above the setting on the main Advanced menu. The issue here generally
only presents when the AVR is wired directly to the Actiontec router and
the iDevice is connected wirelessly. Note however, that if streaming IPTV,
disabling this proxy will also disable the IPTV connection,
so in that case you'll need to leave IGMP enabled and place an ethernet
switch between the Actiontec and the rest of the network.
Regardless of the type router being used, if there is a "Disable IGMP Proxy"
setting that is checked, try unchecking it and see if that resolves the issue.
Otherwise, try toggling the "IGMP Proxy" setting ON/OFF/ON.
b. “Airplay Speaker Not Available”: This issue may be a result of not
turning OFF the NET/USB source on the AVR (as opposed to just changing inputs).
When you are finished with the Airplay audio, press/hold the remote ENTER button.
Another solution is to uncheck the Airplay symbol on the iPhone/iPad
(putting it on the iphone/iPad speaker and thus breaking the handshake).
c. AVR randomly changes to other sources: This may indicate a defective HDMI board.
Reset the microprocessor as listed in your Owner's manual and if still no joy,
then give Denon a call to have it repaired.
d. AVR shuts down at higher volumes: A good rule of thumb is to not raise
the master volume above 0db (relative) or 80 (absolute) as it may result
in clipping/distortion from the speakers. You can set the "Volume Limit"
setting to 0db to ensure this doesn't happen. If the AVR is shutting down
at volumes lower than 0db (eg. -10db) then it is most likely the result of
a loose speaker wire from one post on the back of the AVR touching another
post so verify all speaker connections are clean. Pull the AVR out of the
cabinet or rack if you have to in order to visually check the rear panel as
more than one owner has learned a cursory look with a flash light may not be
good enough to see the single wire strand that is causing the problem.
e. AVR switches to TV source when first turned ON: This occurs because you
have the HDMI-CEC/ARC feature on your TV set to ON as well as HDMI Control
on the AVR set to ON. The "TV Audio Switching" (SETUP - VIDEO - HDMI Setup -
TV Audio Switching) factory defaults to ON.
Set this to OFF to resolve this issue.
You would then need to manually select the "TV Audio" source on the remote
when you want to pass the TV smart app audio back to the AVR.
f. Cannot see networked Denon on my computer/laptop: Try doing the following:
Go to "control panel"..."my computer"... "my network places"...
"show icons for networked upnp devices." If using a Verizon Actiontec router
.... on the router, go to Advanced (accept the warning) and go to the IGMP
Proxy menu and disable IGMP Proxy which should resolve the issue. Note however,
that if streaming IPTV, disabling this proxy will also disable
the IPTV connection, so in that case you'll need to leave IGMP enabled and
place an Ethernet switch between the Actiontec and the rest of the network.
g. Center Channel dialog too weak watching TV: Adjust the Dynamic EQ
"Reference Offset" setting from 0 to 10db. You can also try increasing the
center channel volume by adjusting the Center Dialogue setting. Setting Dynamic
Volume to ON(Evening/Medium) will also help to improve lower level dialogue.
And lastly, another option is to use the "Multi CH Stereo"
mode which will add the dialog to the surround speakers bringing
it closer to your main listening position.
h. "Connection failed. Check the device": This error occurs with the
networking models when the AVR is unable to connect to the home internet
router/modem. Place the AVR in Standby and unplug for a few minutes.
Reset the router or connect directly to the router if connecting wirelessly.
You also may want to consider replacing the router if it is more than
several years old with one that is capable of handling higher bandwidth.
If you are using an Apple device, make sure that "Home Sharing" is turned
ON (as it may have been turned OFF by updating the firmware/iOS).
If you use a NETGEAR router, try disabling the UPnP mode.
If the SSID of your router contains a "space", rename the router without the space.
i. Green screen on TV: This is usually the result of either a bad HDMI cable
or HDMI handshake issue with the TV. Try replacing the HDMI cables with
"High Speed" (1080p) cables. Also try the HDMI Handshake resolution tips
listed in item (k) below. If after doing the suggested tips, you are still
seeing a green screen, give Denon a call as there may be an
issue with the AVR's HDMI board.
j. HD Channel (DD 5.1) in Stereo: Sometimes when a TV station indicates
the HD show is in DD 5.1, they will only broadcast a stereo signal but
do it over a 5.1 audio track with blank channels so although the front
panel display will say Dolby Digital you will only hear audio from your
front L/R speakers. And because it is detected as DD 5.1, you cannot use
a simulation mode (eg. DD PLII or Dolby Surround) to simulate 5.1 audio.
Note also that not all HD channels are broadcast using DD 5.1 audio and
even those that are advertised as DD 5.1, the station may only broadcast stereo 2.0.
k. HDMI Handshake Issues (audio/video dropouts): Handshake issues will
most often present as "audio dropouts" or sometimes video display issues.
Ensure the source device having the issue has the latest firmware
installed and has been reset (ie. powered down, unplugged for a few minutes,
then powered back ON again). For a more
detailed HDMI reset try the following procedure ....
HDMI HDCP reset
With all devices powered on, remove the two HDMI cables
at both ends from the source device to the AVR and from the AVR to the TV.
Power off all devices and disconnect power cables to all devices.
Wait 10-15 minutes.
Reconnect HDMI and power cables to all devices.
Power on the devices in this order ... TV, wait a few secs, AVR,
wait a few secs, and then source device (although this is the
generally recommended order, in some instances, you may have better luck
powering on the AVR first and then the TV, then the source last
... bottom line if it's still not working, try a different power on sequence).
If the issue only involves the cable/sat box, HDMI handshake issues with
cable/sat boxes are quite common (with any brand of AVR) and are usually
always the fault of the cable/sat box not being designed to be connected
to an HDMI repeater (ie. AVR) which is why they work without issue
connected directly to the TV. Give your cable/sat box provider a call to
see if there is a separate firmware update that can be applied to the box
to resolve the issue although note that in some cases, a future firmware
update to the cable/sat box may very well cause an HDMI handshake issue
as well, so your best option to avoid the issue now (or in the future)
is to connect the cable/sat box HDMI directly to the TV and also connect
an optical cable from the cable/sat box to the AVR for surround audio.
If you don't have an optical cable available, and your cable/sat box has
a coax digital "orange" output, you can also use a coax digital cable
(note: a "yellow" composite video RCA cable is a suitable substitute)
and connect it to the SAT/CBL coax digital input on the AVR (ie. right
next to the optical jack). Note that with this configuration (ie. HDMI
straight to TV) you will lose the GUI/status menu for the cable/sat box,
but you retain the capability to watch TV using the TV
speakers only with the AVR in Standby
(eg. news, sports, wife, kids). Another option, if your AVR features a
component video input is to connect both a component video cable and an
optical (or digital coax) cable from the cable/sat box to the AVR noting
that although you gain the GUI/status menu feature, you will lose the
capability to watch TV using the TV speakers only. You may also want to
try upgrading to a different model cable/sat box.
Other possible solutions:
Try inserting an HDMI switch in between the AVR and the TV
(or better yet add either an HDMI Dective Plus or Dr HDMI).
Ensure there is proper ventilation around the AVR (at least 3-4"
above the unit) and if enclosed in a cabinet, use a PC fan to exhaust
the heated air out the back of the cabinet
HDMI performance can also vary between the different HDMI input
jacks due to quirks of circuit board design so be sure to try each of
the other HDMI inputs as one may work better than another
With the (S930H/X2400H) and higher models, if you are having a video issue,
try setting the "Resolution" setting to the resolution of the TV
(eg. 1080p) rather than using the "Auto" setting.
Try inserting the Dr. HDMI between the AVR and the TV/PJ.
l. HTPC won't pass audio/video: HTPC connections can be "iffy" at best.
] If you are having problems trying to connect your HTPC to the AVR,
ensure the HDMI port on the HTPC is selected for audio/video output
and that the latest firmware is installed on the HTPC video card or
try a different video card if one is available. Try each of the HDMI
inputs on the AVR (especially the one closest to the HDMI Monitor Out jack)
as well as ensuring the HTPC is set to a standard TV resolution rather
than the default resolution of the HTPC's display. If using a 6' HDMI
cable, try using a longer HDMI cable (12'+) as this has been known
to work in some instances. The issue likely involves incorrect EDID
information being passed to the HTPC video card from jhe AVR. Refer to
this post and this post both of which discuss an EDID Override procedure.
If you are having problems using Windows Media Player then try using TVersity.
If you are having problems playing .flac files, try using ffdshow.
Sometimes connecting a Gefen HDMI Detective between the HTPC and
the AVR has been known to resolve the EDID issues.
The HDMI Detective also works well with DVI TV's that are having EDID issues.
If you are trying to connect to a Panasonic plasma,
and getting the 10 red blinking light on the Panny,
check out this post for several solutions.
NVIDIA video card owners: Try the following: Bring up the NVIDIA control panel.
For display options, select the AVR (not the HTPC display). AVR->Adjust
desktop color settings->Apply the following enhancements->Content type
reported to the display->Full-screen video (vice the default of AUTO).
If the HTPC is having issues reconnecting after coming out of "sleep" mode,
then refer to this ATI solution or this NVIDIA solution
for more info to resolve the issue.
Another option is to set the “Video Mode" setting to either
"MOVIE" or "GAME" vice "AUTO."
m. Intermittent HDMI audio/video: Other than the possibility of an HDMI
handshake, try connecting the HDMI cable to each of the other inputs on
the AVR to determine if one HDMI jack works better for you with that input
(previous year's models have shown that HDMI1 and HDMI2 react differently
than the other inputs). Also try all the HDMI inputs on your TV as well as
ensuring there is a tight, secure connection at both ends of the HDMI
cable as sometimes the cable can just be loose. Note that just because the
HDMI cable works when connected directly to the TV, doesn't necessarily
mean it will work when connected to the AVR. When in doubt, try another
HDMI cable that is confirmed to work with the AVR. You may also want to
try inserting an HDMI switch between the AVR and the TV.
n. No audio from single speaker: If there is no audio coming from a single
speaker, try swapping the speaker with another speaker to ensure it works.
If it works, it's not the speaker. Place it back in its’ original location.
Unhook the speaker wire at the AVR posts and connect it to a AA battery
(+/+ and then tap the - to the -). If you hear static at the speaker,
then there is no short in the wire itself and the issue is with the AVR channel.
Try resetting the microprocessor as noted in post #5 to see if that resolves
the issue. If not, time to call Denon or your
local Denon authorized repair facility.
o. No Video on AVR front panel display: If you suddenly find no video being
displayed on the front panel display, check to see that the PURE button on
the remote wasn't pressed and changed the surround mode to PURE DIRECT
which turns off the front panel display. Also check to make sure all your
cable connections are securely inserted into their jacks as kids, cats,
and cleaning folks have a habit of getting to the back panels and can
accidently loosen the connection.
p. Projector - no video displayed: If you are running an HDMI cable from the
AVR to a projector that is longer than 20' and it won't pass 1080p video
but will pass 720p, then the signal is too weak. Test this by using a
shorter cable to the PJ. HDMI generally only works to about 15'-20'
without issues, although some owners have indicated with a Monoprice
50' HDMI cable they have no issues. Monoprice also now sells “active”
HDMI cables. . If replacing the cable is not possible, you'll likely want
to try a powered HDMI extender. Check Monoprice as there are several
models offered. For those of you using HDMI--> CAT 5/6 converters,
and having video display issues, you may want to try
using this HDMI voltage enhancer.
q. PS3/Blu Ray Player (BDP)/Game machine - No video or intermittent video
issue: On the PS3 or Blu Ray player, set the "Deep Color Output"
setting to OFF. Ensure the game machine is set to a standard TV
resolution otherwise the AVR won't recognize the signal. Additionally,
on the xBox, try turning off “auto-detect display settings” and forcing
the display settings to match the TV.
r. Speaker volume change won't stick: When you make individual
speaker/sub volume changes using Manual Setup - Test Tones,
the changes are global and will apply to all source inputs.
If you want to make source specific changes, use the OPTION - Channel Level Adjust.
s. Sub not working: If there is no audio coming from the sub,
it could be the sub is dead, the sub's power cord isn't plugged
in and the sub powered ON, the sub coax digital cable is bad,
there is an issue with the AVR sub preout, or the AVR's speaker
settings are incorrect. First make sure the sub is plugged in and powered ON.
Remove the cable from the AVR sub preout jack and rub your finger
over the connector tip. You should hear some static from the sub.
If not, replace the cable with another cable (use a "yellow"
composite video cable to test with) and try again. If still no noise
]from the sub, then you may have a busted sub. Otherwise if there is
noise from the sub, the issue is with the AVR. Make sure that all
speakers are set to SMALL (Manual Setup as well as 2CH Direct/Stereo
custom settings if your model has this feature) with no lower than
80hz crossovers which will then pass all audio below 80hz to the sub.
If you have your front speakers set to LARGE and the sub set to LFE,
then although the sub will play the low bass in the 0.1 (LFE) channel
during DD/DTS 5.1 movies, it will not play the low bass in stereo
(2.0) music unless you change the sub setting to LFE+Main,
although the issue with no bass during music is alleviated if the
front mains are set to SMALL w/80hz crossovers as is
suggested after running Audyssey Setup.
t. Surround mode changes: You change the surround mode for SD channels
from STEREO to Dolby Surround but it changes back to STEREO the next
time you turn on the AVR. The most common cause for this is that you are
using a Quick Select button to select the source and didn't re-memorize
the new surround setting to the Quick Select by pressing/holding the Quick
Select button for 3-4 seconds after making the change. Otherwise,
the Personal Memory Plus feature of the AVR will remember the setting
and use that same setting the next time that source signal is received.
u. Unresolved Issues: If you are experiencing an issue with your AVR that
is not listed in post #4 of this thread, and for which you cannot get a
resolution either by (a) reviewing the information in this thread,
unplugging the AVR for a few minutes, (c) resetting the source device,
(d) ensuring the source device has the firmware updated (if possible),
(e) ensuring the AVR has it's firmware updated (if a networking model),
resetting the microprocessor using the procedure in your Owner’s manual,
v. Volume drops randomly from AT&T U-verse box: Setting Audyssey Dynamic
Vol to OFF for the AT&T U-Verse source input should resolve this issue,
otherwise you can bypass the AVR with HDMI from the box to the TV and
optical from the box to the AVR.
w. White sparkles on TV: If you see white sparkles (ie. snow) displayed
on the HDTV when the source is connected via HDMI, this may be a sign
the HDMI cable is defective. Before replacing the cable; however,
try powering on your equipment in this order: TV, pause 5 seconds, AVR,
pause 5 seconds, source device and see if that resolves the issue.
If not, you can find inexpensive HDMI replacement cable
נערך בפעם אחרונה על-ידי mbd בתאריך א' 27/08/2017 14:08, נערך סך הכל פעם אחת